Like a classical still-life painting, the best cheese trays are composed, each item considered as part of a larger tableau. The result—pure artistry of the edible kind.
Cocktail-hour companion or after-dinner offering, cheese trays are sophisticated treats that hide a secret: underneath their sophisticated demeanor, they’re surprisingly easy to create. Anchored by a center-stage selection of artisan cheeses and supported with well-chosen accompaniments, they’re interactive, flexible and convey an instant party attitude.
“People talk about the cheese, explore it, enjoy it,” says Clark Wolf, a cheese authority and the author of “American Cheeses: The Regional, Artisan, and Farmhouse Cheeses, Who Makes Them, and Where to Find Them” (Simon & Schuster).
There are many ways to approach the cheese selection. It can, of course, be an assembly of types the cook/creator likes or wants to try. Just as easily, a display can be a mild-to-assertive sampling; a cross-milk series; or it can be created around a country of origin. “If you plan all Spanish cheeses and pair them with quince paste, Marcona almonds and rustic bread, it’s like taking a whole vacation on your plate,” Wolf notes.
He recommends an odd number of cheeses on the tray; from his perspective, it’s more comfortable than even. But what odd number should you land on? “Three says you’re invited for a snack. Five says ‘have another cocktail’ and five means no dinner,” Wolf says. For him, three usually is the right number.
Well Bread
Bread or crackers come next and in the best laid plans, they are matched to the cheese. Something soft and runny merits a different choice than a hard, slicing cheese.
“Generally speaking, neutral and crisp are good ideas,” Wolf advises. He gravitates to darker breads over light and prefers thin slices that are toasted. Water crackers and other fairly straightforward selections are safe bets, not likely to be too assertive for their cheesy toppings. “Never wrong is a good place to be,” Wolf says.
Nuts and fruits are essential, bringing visual artistry and complementary flavors to the presentation.
“They’re all good but walnuts are my secret weapon,” Wolf says. “Every cheese, wine and Port is enhanced by them, becoming smoother and livelier. It doesn’t matter if the walnuts are toasted, glazed or spiced. They always work.”
He’s equally enthusiastic about grapes. “There’s never been a grape that doesn’t go with cheese. Plus, they’re beautiful. I love it when you can eat the decorations.”
Dried apricots, cherries, dates and figs are, says Wolf, “versatile, pretty and they all feel nice in your hand.”
Perfect Pears
If apples and pears seem to show up on nearly every cheese tray, it’s with good reason. Their crisp texture, tart/sweet taste and clean finish are kind to most cheeses. But what types work best? “It’s not an easy choice anymore. There are so many more varieties than we used to see,” Wolf says. “For pears, I like the crispness of a Bosc. Comice are too soft.”
Cooked to an intensely concentrated butter, pears and apples deliver the same flavor profile in an alternate form. Wolf’s advice: “Lean toward savory ones that are low-key in their spicing. Be careful about cinnamon and nutmeg with cheese.”
Honey, served in a small pot or drizzled atop one of the cheeses, is very much in vogue but a piece of honeycomb may be the best way to incorporate it. “If it’s good enough for the queen bee, it’ll work on a cheese tray,” Wolf says.
Chutneys, preserves, relishes, olives and syrups also can be incorporated. And one surprise element that Wolf says isn’t often thought of: “Butter, especially if it is served with strong cheeses such as Gorgonzola, adjusts the intensity level. Spread a little on the bread before adding the cheese.”
Amid the artistry of preparing a cheese tray, one very important point shouldn’t be overlooked, forgotten or underestimated. They are social centerpieces, meant to be savored and enjoyed. Says Wolf, “It should be fun.”