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Grate Expectations

Box graters. Microplanes. Rasps. Rotaries. Wheels. Vegetable Peelers.

Amid the many choices, is there such a thing as the perfect cheese grater, one single gadget that turns blocks of cheese into the perfectly rendered output?

Some say the old-school box grater comes the closest since its four sides offer the most choices for the grate. Even at the omnipresent risk of occasional bare-knuckle battles with it, the time-tested workhorse always comes through, offering options from powdery fine to a reasonable facsimile of slices. Their larger holes work well on semi-soft cheeses such as Cheddar, Havarti and Colby.

A terrifically functional alternative showed up in the kitchen when someone raided the tool kit, putting a Microplane wood file to work on a wedge of cheese. The long, slender hand-held gadgets have since become kitchen staples, turning countless wedges of hard cheese into fluffy perfection. Because they have very small but exceptionally sharp grating holes, Microplanes are suited for hard cheeses such as Parmesan and Pecorino Romano, quickly rendering them recipe ready.

Rotary graters allow a hands-off approach to the task, with a chunk of cheese snuggly tucked inside as a rotating rasp whittles it down to a shower of shreds. They are great for use at the dinner table.

A swivel-bladed vegetable peelers is the gear to grab when delicate curls are called for, such as atop of salads or pasta dishes. With a few quick sweeps across a wide surface of cheese, peelers instantaneously cut and curl with beautiful precision.

To make quick work of large amounts, nothing beats the food processor; just make sure the cheese is well chilled before shredding it.

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