Lore has it that the discovery of cheese was something of a happy accident, an unplanned consequence of milk being tucked in a shepherd-of-yore’s saddle l bag—most likely a sheep’s stomach. A little bit of agitation from the movement of the rider, along with enzymes from the sheep’s stomach, was enough to curdle the milk and the rest, as they say, is cheese history.

True or not, the story highlights the relative simplicity of basic cheeses. Essentially little more than milk and a change agent—usually rennet or acid—is required. Simple enough to try at home, right?

Armed with the knowledge that basic cheese making can be simple, the arrival of “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Cheese Making” stirred up the crazy notion that while a wheel of Stilton might be beyond reach, ricotta, queso blanco, mascarpone and sag paneer are among the entry-level cheese exercises that are within reach of anyone. A quart of cream and a few other simple ingredients drove home the truth in the most delicious way. At breakfast time, the milk was fluid. By dinner time, it had, by some magical alchemy, become luxurious, thick and satiny—mascarpone at its very best.

The book offers about 20 different cheese “recipes,” careful formulas for transforming milk into better versions of itself. The basic ones are quite easy, require very little in terms of ingredients and equipment, and their success is almost guaranteed.

Buoyed by the experience of making entry-level cheeses, users will be tempted to venture forward and try more complex varieties. Farmhouse Cheddar, Havarti and Monterey Jack count among those that are offered. Broken down into a series of steps, none of them seem impossible but they do ask a certain commitment. Monterey Jack, for instance, has 11 steps that play out over four months. Mesophilic culture and cheese wax are required, suggesting that a specialty source will have to be located. But for culinary-oriented cheese heads, it’s a journey worth considering.

Here’s a starter recipe, a simple way to make mascarpone cheese. The results were foolproof and have visions of Havarti in our head.

Mascarpone

Adapted from “The Complete Idiot's Guide to Cheese Making” by James R. Leverentz

• Makes 13 to 14 ounces
• Ingredients:
• ¼ teaspoon tartaric acid
• 1 tablespoon distilled water
• 1 quart heavy cream
• Equipment:
• Double boiler, at least 2 quarts
• Mixing spoon
• Measuring spoons
• Colander
• 1 yard fine cheesecloth

1. Combine tartaric acid and distilled water in a small dish. Stir to dissolve tartaric acid.
2. Put cream in top of double boiler. Bring water in bottom of double boiler to a boil and heat cream to 185F.
3. Turn off heat and transfer the top of the pot, with the cream, to a counter top. Stir in the dissolved tartaric acid until a fine curd forms. This will be visible around the sides of the bowl. Let cream cool for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
4. Moisten the cheesecloth and squeeze dry. Line colander with a double thickness of cheesecloth and set over a deep bowl. Slowly pour in the cream mixture. When all cream has been poured through, gather the corners of the cheesecloth and tie a loose knot (or tie with twine).
5. Lift the colander and discard the whey. Put colander back into the bowl and add the cheesecloth ball. Put the entire assembly into the refrigerator for 10 hours or overnight.
6. Remove from the refrigerator. Discard contents of the bowl. Unwrap the cheesecloth and transfer mascarpone cheese to a clean covered container. It can be refrigerator for up to a week.